At the headquarters, Frances Hannah and Donovan Rule, CLZ’s project and grants managers welcomed us with a pre-dinner, flat-bottomed motor boat ride on the Zambezi River. Motoring swiftly along the water we saw herds of grazing impalas, wild elephants taking afternoon strolls along the bank as well as eating grass on the many Zambezi River islands, lurking crocodiles hunkered down on the banks ready to snatch whatever might come their way, and hundreds of hippo heads staring from the water at us interlopers.